It was a collection of leftovers that got me hitched to the combination of tofu, greens and chilis. I make two sauces – one a version of chile oil, spiked with both fresh and dried, and aromatic with garlic; the other a Cantones-style scallion-ginger-garlic slurry that looks like a murky, muted tangle, but tastes brackish, green and electric.
The tofu and both the sauces benefit from an overnight rest in the fridge, so in a perfect scenario I prep everything the day before. More often, I make a decent batch of the sauces whenever impulse strikes, as they keep well and I am forever finding them useful. (The chili oil is fast friends with eggs, and the scallion sauce a classic partner to chicken, poached or roasted). Then, I’ll pick up some tofu on the way home, give it 30 minutes of marinating on the counter alongside the sauces as they warm up, blister the tofu and greens, and then eat shortly thereafter.
It goes without saying, Lao Gan Ma is the standard when it comes to such chile oils and crisps; do yourself a favour and pick up a jar while you’re getting the tofu, or seek out small makers; there are some utterly brilliant renditions to be had.
For the chile oil
20 cloves of garlic, about 2 heads, peeled
2 teaspoons medium-grained kosher salt, divided
1 1/2 cups (355 ml) neutral oil, divided
14 fresh red chiles
A 2-inch piece of cinnamon stick
1 star anise
4 teaspoons tamari or coconut aminos
3 ounces (85 g) dried red pepper flakes, Sichuan preferred
3/4 teaspoon cane sugar or brown sugar
2 tablespoons sesame oil, black preferred
1/4 cup (35 g) sesame seeds
For the Scallion Sauce
2 1/2-inch piece of ginger, peeled
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 large bunch scallions, trimmed, white and green parts sliced thinly, about 2 cups
3/4 cup (180 ml) neutral oil
2 teaspoons tamari or coconut aminos
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
Medium-grained kosher salt, as needed
For the tofu and to serve
2 14-ounce packages (400 g each) firm tofu
2 tablespoons cane sugar
2 teaspoons tamari or coconut aminos
2 tablespoons neutral oil, plus more for the pan
A good pinch medium-grained kosher salt
8 baby bok choy or 2 cups snow pea sprouts or Chinese broccoli
METHOD
Make the chile oil. In a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic cloves with 1 teaspoon salt to a coarse paste. (Alternatively, push the garlic through a press into a bowl or grate with a microplane. Sprinkle on salt. Smush garlic and salt against the side of the bowl with the back of a spoon until pulverized.) Scrape garlic into a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, then cover with half the oil. Set pan over medium-low heat and gently fry, stirring periodically, until the garlic is tender and golden, 25 minutes or so.
While the garlic is on the stove, stem the fresh chiles and slice thinly. Transfer the chiles to the mortar and pestle and grind with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. (Or, mince with a knife and smudge with the back of a spoon as done before.)
Once the garlic is cooked, introduce the chiles to the pan, along with the cinnamon and anise. Stir and simmer until the chiles are cooked and translucent, 8 minutes or so. Pour in the remaining oil, along with the chile flakes. Let stand on heat for 1 minute, then pull off the stove and stir in the tamari. Let cool to room temperature. Discard the cinnamon and star anise. Check for seasoning, then transfer to a clean jar. Use right away, or cover and refrigerate until needed.
Move on to the scallion sauce. Using a microplane or similar rasp, finely grate the ginger and garlic into a medium, heat-safe bowl. Fold in the scallions. Heat the oil in a small, heavy bottom saucepan over medium heat until shimmering but not smoking. Carefully pour the heated oil over the scallions. Let stand 30 seconds, then stir in the tamari, rice vinegar, and a couple generous pinches of salt. You’ll need a surprising amount. Cool, taste for seasoning, then transfer to a jar. Cover and refrigerate until it’s time to eat.
For the tofu, drain each block and wrap in a double-thickness of lint-free kitchen towel or paper towel. Press tofu dry, then portion each block as you wish, in slices and cubes. In a shallow baking dish, stir together the sugar, tamari, oil, and salt. Turn the tofu through the dressing, cover and refrigerate for 1 hour and up to overnight.
Once the tofu has marinated, heat a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet or nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Pour a thin film of oil across the base of the pan. Working in batches as necessary, fry the tofu on all sides until deeply golden, then transfer to a serving plate. Tip the bok choy or greens into the hot pan, along with any remaining marinade. Cook until tender, then add to the serving plate. Spoon the sauces around the tofu and greens, and serve.