This gussied-up macaroni is comfortingly rich; it’s a bit like Tuna Helper with a kick. Kimchi grants an unexpected depth and vegetable crunch that is especially welcome when the crisper drawer is empty. Classic kimchi udon is served with a raw egg yolk, like in bibimbap, to be stirred into the hot pasta to thicken the sauce, but here it takes the form of a fried egg to crown the plate.